Friday, February 1, 2008

Old Dhaka

Today two colleagues and I decided to be renegades and break from the office/hotel routine. Since my last time here, I'd been hoping to check out some more of Old Dhaka, since all I'd seen was Sadarghat.

First we headed to Ahsan Manzil, the Pink Palace. We got there just as the gates had closed but were shuffled in and allowed to walk around for a bit. I'm embarrassed to say that we were allowed in despite the fact that several Bangladeshis were lined up outside. I didn't feel very good about it, but figured that it very well may have been my only opportunity to see the palace. Walking around the grounds and seeing the view of the Bariganga River from the top of the steps was worth a little American guilt.



Per my Lonely Planet guidebook....in 1872, it was built on the site of an old French factory by Nawab (Prince) Abdul Ghani, Dhaka's wealthiest zamindar (landowner). Depicted here wearing a jazzy feather hat...


Lord Curzon, the Viceroy of India, stayed in the palace whenever he was in Dhaka. Here he is looking very British...


Next we headed to Bangsal Road, also known as "Bicylcle Street," where the wallahs buy the art that adorns their rickshaws. We wound our way through the narrow streets and walked through a major rickshaw traffic jam - a total cluster-you know what. There seems to be no "you go, then I go, and so we all have a better chance of making it across the street in one piece." No no. Everyone inches up on each other so rickshaws end up in a tangle and no one gets anywhere. Anyway, we made it through there after asking someone every several yards "Bangsal Rd. kotai?" (where is Bangsal Rd.?) and finally made it. I picked up some fantastic pieces that I have nowhere to hang, but damn it they're cool.